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Friday, March 29, 2024

Seiko and Haute Horology: A Grand Development

Grand Seiko has constantly pushed to expand its horological legacy ever since creating the world’s most accurate wristwatch in the 1960s. Moreover, to expand its legacy, it has pursued the further development of quartz, mechanical, and Spring Drive movements to make waves in the world of horology or watchmaking. This Seiko brand is special for several reasons. First, it’s the one dedicated to penetrating the haute horology market, allowing the company to experiment and tinker with all the fancy materials and techniques that Swiss watchmakers have been using for decades. Second, Grand Seiko watches and timepieces are made with precious metals and feature Seiko Hi-Beat movements – pulsing or “vibrating” ten times a second. 

The storied Japanese watch manufacturer has finally arrived at the forefront of haute horology and is making its moves in the high watchmaking world with the Grand Seiko Micro Artist Studio. Discover the new wonders of Japan’s haute horology, where the Takumi (artisans) work

Grand Seiko and the Micro Artist Studio

The Seiko Watch Corporation is made of many watch brands, with different interpretations of watchmaking, and produced for different price segments. First, there’s Seiko, which is comprised of sub-brands like Prospex, Presage, and Seiko 5 Sports. Then comes Grand Seiko, a higher-end brand or group with the capability and technology to compete against the best Swiss watch brands. But, of course, such watches and timepieces are not made under the same roof and by the same watchmakers. Grand Seiko watches and timepieces require more attention to detail and more highly trained watchmakers. But even inside the Grand Seiko group, there are watches that yet another atelier handles, and that is the Micro Artist Studio, where true horological mahou (magic) happens. 

The Micro Artist Studio, located in the same Nagano prefecture facility where Grand Seiko Spring Drive and quartz watches are made, was established in 2000 and can be considered the brand or group’s haute horology atelier. However, the Studio is not just where the group’s most complex horological creations are created. It is also the site for something even more exclusive, and this has to do with traditional, hand-performed decorative skills. This rather restricted area comprises about ten employees – Japan’s best movement designers and master watchmakers dedicated to producing the company’s most exclusive and intricate watches.

According to Masatoshi Moteki (in charge of movement design and research & development), three points differentiate the movements made by the Micro Artist Studio from the ones made for classic Grand Seiko collections. 

  • First, studio timepieces incorporate more hand-finished parts than classic Grand Seiko movements, except for Grand Seiko’s Calibre 9R31 and all Spring Drive movements with some hand-finished components. 
  • Second, their assembly process differs. A team assembles Grand Seiko movements. On the other hand, one uniquely skilled watchmaker is in charge of the entire process of Studio movement assembly, from putting in the jewels to putting the pinions into the wheels. This allows each watch to be carefully adjusted, including the clearances between the gears and parts – ensuring that the watch operates smoothly.
  • Finally, unique watchmaking technologies, such as the torque return system, aren’t used to make a regular Grand Seiko watch. The parts of the movement made by the Micro Artist Studio are also designed with stricter standards than those of Grand Seiko. Due to their complexity, such parts need more durability and strength. 

As Grand Seiko already represents the luxury side of the Japanese conglomerate, the Micro Artist Studio is its premier venture into haute horology. The Studio has proven to be a grand development indeed.


Author’s Bio: Luther Abrams is quite a jack of all trades type of guy. He loves exploring new things and cultivating his knowledge every now and then. Today, he grows more and more interested in jewelry and watches and even writes about such things in his free time.

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